By Jeff Stallings, CPDT-KA
When my now elderly dog Otis was a puppy, together we worked hard (meaning we played hard) to learn the basics. More enthusiastic than brilliant, Otis loved to learn. After acing SIT, DOWN and COME, we started working on a solid STAY. By the time she was eight months old, I could put her in a DOWN/STAY in our local park and walk all the way around the recreation center. In the years since, Otis simply responds to my STAY cue, no matter where we are.
Teaching your dog to STAY until released is one of the most important and functional behaviors you can teach, the cornerstone of impulse control. STAY isn’t difficult to teach but it does take time and patience to build distance and duration.
Unlike most other cues, you will introduce both the hand signal and the verbal cue at the start of the process. While I generally refrain from repeating cues, STAY is the one cue that I will repeat because we’re asking our dog to keep a thought in his mind for a long time.
Plan on working with your pup on STAY every day for several months, until you are able to move out of your dog’s line of sight for at least one minute. Be patient, with yourself and with your dog.
Follow These Steps to Teach Your Dog to STAY
STEP 1:
Using a towel or mat as a “target” that can be moved easily to various locations around your home, have your dog SIT, count two seconds give praise and a tiny treat ONLY IF your dog has remained in the sit position. Repeat, adding a few seconds each time until your dog will sit for 5 seconds. If he gets up, calmly take him back to the same target towel/matt and repeat the SIT cue and proceed.
STEP 2:
Now it’s time to add the STAY verbal cue and hand signal. Have your dog SIT, and then present the STAY hand signal about a foot or two from your dog’s face: Stationary open palm, as in the image above. Say “stay”, wait 5-10 seconds, then praise/treat.
STEP 3:
Now we’ll start working on distance. Have your dog SIT, and then issue the STAY hand signal while saying “stay”. Take one step back, wait a few seconds, then walk back to him to deliver a tiny treat or praise. Repeat taking the two steps back. If he gets up, simply lure him back to the same location on your towel or mat, reissue the SIT and STAY commands and try again.
STEP 4:
The key to success as you increase the distance and duration: ALWAYS walk back to your dog to deliver the treat reward and/or praise rather than calling him to you. This both adds time to the stay (since he will be staying during your walk back to him) and keeps him from being the loaded spring he will become if you call him to you at the end of the STAY.
STEP 5:
Start moving in various directions – back, sides, front, behind the dog, with your back to you dog, then eventually around a corner out of his sight. Should your dog stand or move away from your mat, simply back up a step: You’re going too fast. (This is where your patience is crucial.)
STEP 6:
Finally, with distance and duration under your dog’s belt, er, collar, it’s time to introduce distractions. Start by having another person in the room, then move to a busier location such as a street corner or park. Over time you will have your dog STAY in many situations.
Even after your dog has mastered STAY (and other) commands, continue to praise frequently and treat occasionally to keep him on his toes. And use all your commands in real-life situations as often as you can. For instance, have your dog SIT/STAY before you open the door to go out for walks.
Start thinking of each and every interaction as a training opportunity. This way you are constantly reinforcing positive behaviors. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Nothing in life is free!
